Bottom Skin
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Step 2 INSTALLATION OF THE BOTTOM SKIN

I have officially discovered vacuum bagging!  It's awesome!  I did the landing brake inside layup with the unit I purchased as a practice/test part (click here to visit that page) and it turned out OK, but not as good as my elevators have so far.  Click here to go to my vacuum bagging page.  This picture is of the first elevator I did, in the vacuum bag supplied with the kit.  This layup, 2 layers of UNI (at a 30 degree angle to the elevator) was covered with 2 layers of peel ply, then two layers of paper towel and then bagged.  This picture shows how well the nylon bag works to conform to the shape of the part you are bagging - you can even see the texture of the foam through the surface of the bag.
You can see this system, the same pump as the landing brake layup but now using the supplied bag is able to pull a serious vacuum without leaks.  I set the release valve at about 15" of Hg, and, once the pump pulled this vacuum and things settled down, this level of vacuum was held all night without the pump running. 
Here I am doing the second elevator.  I took a few more in progress shots for this one.  The layup is done as you would normally, here I am putting on the micro over the foam.  When the layup is complete, make sure you trim it very close to all the edges - I used my Dritz electric scissors.
Once the layup is complete (and trimmed), two layers of peel ply and paper towel are laid over the over the layup and the part is inserted into the bag.  This bagging system uses a bag that is open at both ends, it's a 9 foot roll of bagging material.  I used one of the supplied clips on one end of the elevator and left the other end open.
Once the elevator is inserted into the bag, you install the vacuum fitting through a small hole you cut into the bag.  I make sure I have enough paper towels reaching from the part/peel ply to the vacuum fitting so the air can be pulled out properly.  The paper towels function as breather ply in this setup.  You then add the clip on the other end of the bag and start the pump.
Once the pump pulls the vacuum to the desired setting, the bagging material does its trick.  It's flexible enough to conform to some pretty sharp corners without wrinkling.  I did try pretty hard to get the peel ply on smoothly to help solve any wrinkling problems.
The finished elevator.  Very, very nice when finished.  A very smooth layup, no bubbles, complete conformance to the shape of the part (you can see how good of a job the bag did in attaching the glass layers around the front of the torque tube) and maximum glass to resin ration for strength.  Since these parts are weight sensitive, it was very satisfying to do them this way and know they were as light as they could be. 
Here's a close up of one end of one elevator after vacuum bagging.  You can see I didn't get the layup trimmed exactly to the edge of the core and the vacuum bag helped be out my forcing the two layers of UNI (which is generally hard to get to bend around corners) squarely over the edge.  Sure, this will get sanded off but it is a great demonstration of how good the bagging system works.
Here's the second elevator curing in its bagged state.  I think I might weight down the elevators when I do the top skins to be sure there is no warp induced by how tight the bag gets.
The second elevator after bagging.  You can see that the top and bottom layers of the bag have forced the extra layup material in between the two of them but still forced the layers around the curve of the tube.  This is not a problem, all of this gets sanded off before you put on the top skin layers.
A better shot of the effect mentioned in the text above.
Once both bottom skins were cured, I cleaned up the leading and trailing edges and ends with a sanding block per plans.  I also used my sanding spline to make sure the trailing edge was straight.  I didn't have to knife or saw trim the trailing edge because I scissor trimmed it close to the foam core when I did the vacuum bag steps.
Checking the trailing edge "length" with the canard airfoil template.  Once sanded close to size and then spline sanded to make a straight edge, my elevators were ready for their top skins.
Click here for Top Skins

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