|
|
 |
Here's a
shot of the forward face, after its had micro applied, a single layer of
BID, and been peel plied around the edges and joints. I did not micro
these pieces together in this shape before I did the layup, so, I added some
wood pieces (covered with tape) and weight to prevent any mis-alignment of
them during the cure of the glass. The ends have been propped up to
match the angle the pieces will have once installed on top of the rest of
the spar. |
 |
A shot of the other end. Nothing special to this
layup, no rocket science. Let it cure then micro it onto the rest of
the spar. |
 |
I scissor trimmed this layup the following morning. |
 |
After this layup cures, you remove it from the 'jig' then
micro it to the spar. I made mine in one piece as you can see here. |
 |
Note the end bulkheads stick up past the sides.
Notice that I have pre-drilled access holes in these bulkheads for wiring
runs later one. Some builder inserted some plastic corrugated wire
wrap as a conduit - I didn't. Hope I don't regret that... |
 |
Holes as above in all the bulkheads. I've also added
micro to the tops of the foam. |
 |
Removing the peel ply from the inside of the forward face. |
 |
Here's the forward place held down with some plywood and
weight to make sure it stays down and doesn't flex up and create gaps while
it cures. |
 |
Another view. |
 |
Another view. |
 |
And yet another view.
Who is the photographer? He takes too many pictures. |
 |
After that layup cures for a couple days, you use a razor
saw to start making the spar cap troughs. |
 |
After razor sawing the cut mentioned above, you break off
that sliver of foam. Mine didn't break off very cleanly. |
 |
A shot of the spar cap trough templates checking the spar
cap depth. Weight was added on top of a piece of decking board to keep the
spar from sliding around while I sanded it. |
 |
Close up shot of the spar cap trough while being sanded to
depth. Urethane foam sands easy, but it sure makes a big mess. |
 |
Another shot of sanding the spar cap trough. |
 |
Given my hands are visible, I can't blame myself for taking
too many pictures here. That was someone else - grin. |
 |
Another view. Nice hands! |
 |
Here's the little sanding block I made. Has a couple
of boards mounted on its side to prevent it from sanding too far down the
side of the spar - depth you have to use the templates and measurements for,
however. |
 |
Rock and roll! One properly sized spar cap trough
after cleaning up all the urethane dust. |
 |
If you look closely at the center right of this picture,
you can see where the measurements and cuts I made didn't quite work out.
I have a bit of a corner missing. Will fix that later. |
 |
Here's another shot of the corner where I had a bit of foam
damage / overcut. |
 |
Add a couple pieces of corrugated paper, some tape, mix up
some pour foam and I'm in business. |
 |
Same deal other end. I'm not worried about strength
here, the pour foam is easily as dense as the urethane. |
 |
I used my Shurform plane to carve away the foam for the
1/2" x 1" bevel on both side of the top. |
 |
Frankly, these sorts of steps are what I like about
building the most. Measure carefully, then, carve carefully! |
 |
I mounted the spar to the end of my jig table to carve the
bevel mentioned above. Made it a ton easier.
Be careful moving this thing as it gets further along. It's awkward
shape and weighting causes it to try to flip over all the time. |
| Chapter 14 Step
3 Chapter 14
Step 5 |
