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Here's the three plies of UNI that go over LWA2 and LWA3
pieces after adding flox corners. I do these on waxed paper, with
Sharpie marker outlines on the back side (measure, mark, then flip) making
sure I make the right size piece. |
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This also helps save glass and epoxy. You can lay
scraps over the template until you find one that's big enough but not too
big. I also wet out from the middle, only adding epoxy until the glass
is wet out to the lines on the template. |
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Here's the BID wet out and ready to install. |
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Making flox corners. Sort of out of sequence, but,
this way makes more sense to me. |
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Painting epoxy onto the glass. |
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How do you paint epoxy on around the flox without getting
epoxy in the flox and making it runny or getting flox into the epoxy?
Carefully. |
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Adding the glass layers. Waxed paper makes this much
easier. |
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Don't forget to peel off the waxed paper! |
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One end ready for peel ply. Looks like it needs a bit
of stippling, too, but the waxed paper's still on there. |
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Once the waxed paper was removed, these layups were a
little tricky. Keeping the flox in the corner, the bubbles out, the
layers straight and etc. was fun. |
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One end's LWA2 reinforcing layup peel plied and ready for
cure. |
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...and one end's LWA3 reinforcing layup peel plied and
ready for cure. |
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I used a bunch of wood blocks to get the spar off the table
so I could get to the bottom of these layups. |
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Can you see the brown tint to the aluminum hardpoint?
It's alodined, per plans, though I'm not sure how aluminum buried in epoxy
would ever corrode. |
| Chapter
14 Step 7 Chapter 14
Step 9 |
