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The Fein Multimaster
makes quick work of steps like this. I put the SS saw blade on and did
the straight edges of these openings this way. |
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The corners needed a different treatment, however.
For this I used a coping saw blade, with the pins at the ends removed, with
a pair of vise grips clamped onto one end. As long as you pull more
than you push (make sure the teeth are oriented as such) this method makes
pretty clean cuts. |
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The access holes when finished. Between the Fein and
the coping saw blade, these turned out quite nice. This required a tad of
sanding to clean up the edges but they're only access holes..... |
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Here's me in Crocs doing layup #8. I typically do
these sorts of layups on waxed paper or plastic then apply to the part.
You can see the electric scissors in this shot being used to trim the layup
to size.
My safety expert friends would be proud - mask, safety glasses, gloves,
etc. but the Crocs are not a good idea. Drips will end up right on the
top of my feet....
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The plans make a mention of Safety Poxy for this layup - I
used what I have been using, Pro-Set. I am not aware of any issues
with Pro-Set and fuel - I should be OK. |
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Removing the paper and tape from the bottom of the spar.
This was added to protect the bottom of the spar from the typical drips
and runs. |
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Again, this is a UND layup. BID probably would have
laid down pretty nicely around the corner but UND not so much. Look at
the 'scalloped edge' on the left side of the picture. |
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So, time for the stippling brush. The UND eventually
laid down properly, but, not without a little coaxing. |
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A shot of the access holes after knife / scissor trimming.
These bevels were a bit tricky to get to stay down given that this layup in
UNI, not BID. |
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I added peel ply after the layup was completed.
Readies this for the next step (even if it's a ways down the road) and
helped the sides stay down and helped the UND avoid bubbles on either side
of the corner between the top and the side.
I often tape down the edges of the peel ply (see the blue tape) as this
prevents stubborn glass layups from lifting the glass and peel ply back off
of the surface its on. |
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Peel ply removed, access hole edges trimmed and the spar
being readied for the wing bolt access holes. I used an adjustable
hole saw for these.
Be careful moving the spar around at this stage - it's fairly heavy and
because of the 'bends' it is weighted funny. It will try to roll over
in your hands as you are lifting and moving it and this could cause you to
drop it.
Get a helper.
Ask me how I know. No, I didn't drop it, but, I came pretty darn
close. |
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Drilling the 2 1/4" access holes. The adjustable hole
saw worked great. Go slow so you don't overheat the tip (and
soften/melt the epoxy) and it cuts a nice clean hole. |
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Oi la! Picture is a little fuzzy, but, the hole cut
very cleanly. |
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For the end layup, you need a flox corner. I use my
Dremel for these, per plans, but use a head that allows the non-cutting
shaft to lay against the glass edge (sand the glass edge straight and smooth
first for best results) and the cutting edge to cut the foam.
Makes a flox ditch instead of a corner, but, meets the need. |
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Balloons were used in an attempt to keep the glass layup I
installed in place. Couldn't get myself to do micro only, so I did a
1-ply BID layup instead, starting with flox corners. Peel ply over
that, then, add the balloon and inflate.
The balloon worked for a few hours (long enough for gel stage cure I
think) but eventually leaked a bit, shrank, and fell out onto the floor
where I found it in the morning. |
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A shot of the end layup of the spar. Flox corner, 1
ply BID, then peel ply. |
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Chapter 14 Step 8
Chapter 14 Step 10 |
