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A shot of the CZSA, stick assemblies, mounted onto the
CS105 tube, pivoting in the control system bearing assembly mounted on the
CS-109. Got all those part numbers straight? I don't...
grin. I've also added the CS-102 tube and rod end that goes to the
elevator control horn.
I reiterate my Lego or Erector set comment from previous pages -
Christmas was never this good! LOL!!! |
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I borrowed some V-blocks from my father-in-law to drill all
the holes in the control tubes. Ended up with quite a set up hooked
onto my drill press to keep everything in place. There's a drill bit
in the pre-made hole in CS-105 to keep that alignment correct/vertical, wood
blocks with bolts to keep the V-blocks in place, clamp to hold the tubing in
the V-block etc.
A bit complicated, but, once you get this all set the hole drilling goes
smoothly. Now, unbolt all this and reset for about 50 more holes.... |
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I made up one complete CS-102 assembly including the quick
release pins that are supplied. If you don't have an RV builder
nearby, better befriend one quick. There's quite a few rivets to
install on these parts, even if you buy all the parts the Cozy Girrls supply
like I did. It might be time to buy a big rivet squeezer. Yes, my
friend's air-powered stuff is fine, but, that means I have to run over there
any time I need to put in some rivets. |
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Taper pins are state-of-the-art for these control tube
joints. I decided (after buying all the parts and the reamer required)
to practice a couple of times to make sure I knew what I was doing before I
messed up the real tubing and had to buy more. This is a shot of all the
parts involved in one joint. Taper pin far left, taper pin washer
next, castle nut and cotter pin. A complete assembly is shown
installed in the end of the tubing as well.
My advice - practice first. It's not too tricky but you will be
amazed at how little metal you need to remove with the reamer to get the pin
to set right after the hole is pre-drilled. Further, you'll see that
you can tweak the cotter pin hole / castellated nut combo to match exactly
if you are delicate with the reamer. |
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Close up shot of the previous assembly. |
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End view of the previous assembly. No, I didn't cheat
and just do an outer tube, I did them both to get a sense for how they fit. |
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One problem I experienced with these parts was with the
steel tubing. The parts the Cozy Girrls supplied were to spec,
however, the inside diameter of the 4130 tubing was quite a bit too small.
I thought about having Wicks send me new tubing, but, figured it would also
be out of spec. I thought about having the end of the parts machined,
but, they were to spec. I settled on reaming the end of the tubing,
given it needed only a thousandth or to to fit properly. The hand reamer I
bought is shown mounted in a tap driver. It takes some time and some
oil (note the paper towel) but after a few minutes the inside of the tubing
reams to a nice slip fit with the parts from the Cozy Girrls. The
inside is probably also very smooth and burr-free now, not sure how it
looked before reaming.
Now, these need to be drilled and riveted. |
| Chapter 16 Step 1
Chapter 16 Step 3 |
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