Jig table
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James and Emily basking in the "shade" of the jig table.  This picture, as you can tell, was taken much after I built it because it has jigs for the fuselages sides (chapter 5) mounted on it. After thinking about a jig table for some time and looking through the archives on the web, I settled on a design submitted by Ray Cronise.  You can find the plans for this table on the unofficial Cozy site archives, or, click here for a "reprint."  This table seemed reasonable to build, not too heavy but quite strong and resistant to sagging.  I didn't build mine exactly according to the plans, but it's close.  I did have a bit of a problem getting it to end up flat along its length.  
You can see the vertically mounted stiffeners on the bottom side of the top of the table in this picture Turns out, although I did have the wood sawed at Home Depot on the big saw like recommended, one of the 2x10s I ended up with was pretty bad.  I sit here now and wonder why I didn't take it back - who knows.  Anyway, I installed it center-bump up or arched, then followed the rest of the directions in those plans to get the other parts of the table as straight as possible.  This view also shows the shelf I made underneath for supplies and parts as well as the adjustable feet.
I frequently cover my jig table with 6 mil plastic to make cleaning up easier.  When the resin cures you can pick it off very easily. To get the table flat along its length, I used a measuring method found in Ron Wannttaja's book (see the reference page.)  You make some wood blocks 1" high and get some string and weights.  Put the blocks on the table at either end, hang the string across them like a bridge the length of the table and use the weights to keep the tension.   Then, run a square up and down along the table to see how flat it is.  Once I had the string and blocks in place, I cut the 2x10s on the sides 1/2" at a time then checked the measurements.  After some trial and error, I got the table flat, along the length on one side, then added a piece of plywood to the back of the 2x10 to prevent those cuts from allowing any further sag.  I did the same to the other side then leveled the table using adjustable feet.

 

 

 

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