Well,

I decided that I will have this table for the duration of the project and I 
must get in the habit of doing things "right" even if it means starting over. 
 This is afterall this is the basis for an aircraft that I will fly my family 
in, so perfection is not an option.

I have now incorporated all of the changes that were recommended on this list 
and offline.  I think I have now the "Cozy Deluxe Jig table." Thanks for all 
the help.  I will detail this step by step with photos if someone is willing 
to post it on a web page...I think word can save as HTML so maybe I'll just 
lay it out there and send that to whoever volunteers. This is the 
instructions for the "complete idiot" or someone like me that is a bit rusty 
in woodworking skills....

I will describe the basics briefly, sans photos, so this can end up in the 
archive...

Here are the materials for an 11'x4' table:

2- 4'x8' by 3/4" plywood (used the cadilac version with birch finish-strong 
and level)
3- 2x6s (8') cut into six 35" legs
2- 1x10s (12')
4- handles (two each end)
6- electrical outlets (two on each side, one on each end)
4- 2.5" 5/16 hex bolts with washers and nuts (attach legs)
2- boxes of #6 1-5/8" drywall (all purpose) screws
12- leveling feet (2 for each leg...one may do just as well)

Basic instructions:

Snap chalk line to determine which edge of the 1x10 is "flatter," cut to 
10.5' in length, being sure to square cuts on each end to the "flat edge." It 
is most fun to just carry a chalk line with you to Lowes (Home Depot, 
Builders Square, etc...) and do this on the floor. If they complain, then 
pull out the worse piece of wood you can find (not hard there) and let them 
know if they had better lumber you wouldn't have to waste your time doing 
this....this will guarantee all of your "in store cuts" are free as well. 

You can carry a carpenter's square...or just "borrow" one from the front of 
the store; but do, bring your own chalk line as it would be a bit tacky to 
borrow that too.....

For the Plywood, have them cut it on the nice saw (the one where the saw 
moves, vertical not the wood) to 5.5 feet. Then with the 30" piece left on 
each sheet, have them cut four 5" pieces and this will leave a 10" piece for 
the end of your table.

If you have to pay for the cuts, there are only 8 and the first is usually 
free, so that is a $3.50 well spent for really straight cuts. I wish I had 
one of those rigs in my shop....

for ease of transport you can have the 2x6s cut into 35" sections. You'll 
have 6 of them and three waste ends (can use them for other things). Another 
6 cuts or $3.00 if the straight wood trick doesn't work.

Transport this all to your shop.....

The plywood 5" sections and 10" sections need to be cut to 40.5" in length. 
Be sure to square this cut from one of the edges cut in the store as these 
are flat (the saw was moving). Check both ends to be sure they are square 
with the top, if not you may have to cut some off each end to be sure it is 
square.

The box is assembled with the 1x10s on the outside and all of the plywood 
supports on the inside of the 1x10s. Be sure to place all of the flat edges 
down toward your assemble surface and square the corners. Even if your floor 
is not completely flat, if you are sure each corner is joined perpendicular, 
and the wood edge was flat, the table will be flat. When you screw in the 
last corner, the other side of the table will rise up unless you have a flat 
floor (doubtful).

I drilled pilot holes for the wood screws as the pine tends to split that 
close to the end.  Once the two end pieces are in place, you can turn the box 
frame over and start putting in the 5" x 40.5" plywood horizontal supports. 
Be sure to use a cut, straight edge up and you can mark your first 3 supports 
on 16" centers starting from each end. This is handy as it will be on your 
tape measure if you have a carpenters measure. Drill/screw from side, make 
sure top edge is completely level with the 1x10s.

flip the box over again.

Drill bolt, the 2x6 legs in each corner (bolting to the plywood, not the 
1x10). Now to put the last two legs. Find the center of the table, center the 
legs on each side there. I used 3 drywall screws with the 2x6 perpendicular 
to the 1x10. Place the last two plywood supports on each side and drill/screw 
in place (note, if you screw them to the 1x10s as before, you can remove the 
legs easily). You may need to sand down the top of the  2x6s if they stick up 
above the box plane anywhere.

Note: I used my sagging particle board for the shelf below the table :^)

That's it. 11'x4' jig table with 3" overhang all the way around, electrical 
sockets, handles for moving it around, and a shelf below to store stuff (like 
all of that foam I just got in from wicks!!)

Thanks to everyone for the help.  I think you could get by with a cheaper 
plywood than I used, but with particle board, the horizontal supports would 
not be ideal and I wanted to maximize the utilization of the wood. This way I 
have to buy a minimum amount of wood and I think that for the extra flatness 
I now have, I will be happy 6 months from now.

All total...$151.62 with electrical, hardware...everything. Of that, realize 
that $80 is in that "expensive" worktable top and you could go with a cheaper 
plywood and save. But since this total represents only 1% of what I will 
spend building the plane (less engine) and the entire plane depends on this 
table...I think it is a justified expense.

Sorry for the looooonnnnng post. I hope it helps future builders.

Ray Cronise

CZ-0770